Paryse et Sylvie (Photo: Suzanne Girard 1984)
La Paryse
In the heart of Montreal’s Quartier Latin, La Paryse, a lesbian-owned snackbar, provided unforgettable food and a sense of belonging to its community for over three decades. The cozy, retro space warmly welcomed locals and tourists alike, with a special commitment to ensuring the LGBTQ community felt valued and embraced. From December 1980 to its closure in Fall 2012, Paryse Taillefer was known for serving Montreal’s best burger. With its unusual standard topping of sliced button mushrooms on a Kaiser bun, it was known as an iconic meal on par with Schwartz’s smoked meat sandwich or Wilensky’s special with cheese— a must-try for anyone visiting the city. Its fabled burger landed La Paryse a perennial spot in travel guides, as much for the foodie as the LGBTQ scenes.
Paryse Taillefer recalls La Paryse’s spontaneous beginnings when a friend asked if she wanted to open a restaurant in a building he just purchased. Since her father was a restaurateur, she took advantage of what she had learned from him and decided to take the plunge with her friend Sylvie. The space already had a fryer, so the two agreed that fries were a must, and Sylvie managed to convince then-vegetarian Paryse that they had to serve burgers to go with them. Although Paryse also prepared table d’hôtes and vegetarian dishes, the popular burgers quickly became their focus. Eventually, La Paryse began to serve veggie burgers, too— “in true lesbian-inclusive fashion”, according to one gay travel guide to Montreal!
La Paryse wasn’t just about legendary burgers: its staff was even more outstanding. Paryse was committed to creating a welcoming atmosphere, ensuring that her restaurant felt like home for all her clients. The restaurant became a haven for LGBTQ Montrealers, a space of queer connection outside Montreal’s Village. In particular, Paryse employed and provided a hangout for lesbians that were new in town, feeling responsible for “all the young people that passed through” her establishment. “A restaurant is like inviting people to your house,” according to Paryse, who decorated the restaurant with her personal items, including the art that hung on the walls. “It was their home, too,” she recalls. As a former social worker, she saw her restaurant as inextricably linked with the community, taking pride in her social commitment. La Paryse closed on October 27, 2012 after 32 years in business, but Montreal foodies still reminisce about the incomparable Paryse burger (yes, even the vegetarian pinto bean version).
La Paryse’s glowing green neon sign and the institution it represents stand as a vibrant symbol of cultural and sexual identity in Montreal. This enduring legacy is a testament to Paryse and her trailblazing role as an out and proud lesbian business owner. Visitors can now see the neon sign installed in the café and giftshop at the MEM – Centre des mémoires montréalaises.
Black and white photo: Paryse et Sylvie (Suzanne Girard 1984)
Writing and research by Marie Bernard-Brind’Amour
